Cont. from page 1
finally settling on the approach that begins here with gathering the correct original hardware for as fine a flathead motor as is possible to
build. In future installments we'll see what's required to build a super street flathead, and finally we'll glimpse the future of flathead fever as
Dave shares the tricks and technology of flatheads at the cutting edge of high performance. Along the way in this series we'll talk about
what was done in the past - the old-time hot setup tricks - and what is done today. While some things haven't changed, modern
engine-building tools and technology show us better ways of getting the most in performance and dependability from the lovable old flathead
today. A hot-rodded flathead isn't for everyone, of course, just as the ubiquitous Chevrolet small-block V8 isn't tucked into the engine bay of
every hot rod on the planet -although it seems that way at times. And even if you're unalterably opposed to any motor that carries its valves in
the block right next to the cylinders, hang around and give us - and Dave Tatom - the opportunity to present a different point of reference in
performance engine building than the one that has prevailed since the mid '50s. At the very least, we hope you'll come to appreciate the
challenge and satisfaction - and massive amounts of Fun - that obtain from coaxing modern performance out of Ford's lovable old antique.
Flatheads forever!
PART 1. A(NOTHER) FLATHEAD PRIMER American Rodder has been down this path before - several times, in fact, first early on in our
history with Mike Griffen as the guide, and more recently - four years ago - with the tutelage of major old-Forder Vern Tardel both elaborating
on and tightening up some of the earlier information.
This time around, we're doing much the same as we've done before - expanding and refining what we've explored in the past. As Tardel,
familiar with Dave's work, explains, "Tatom takes flathead building to the next level." As with our earlier flathead buildup stories, that next
level begins with the search for the right hardware, which in this case are the final two engine series - the 59A from 1942 to 1948, and the
8BA from 1949 to 1953. Whereas in the past we drew a key distinction between 21- and 24-stud motors, it's a finer cut at this level in which
even the first generation of the 24-stud flathead - the 21 series Ford built from late 1938 through 1941 - doesn't make the grade. "A hot-rod
flathead has to be a performance engine, it has to look and sound right, and it has to be reliable," says Dave. "For this, you must start with a
24-stud engine, and it has to be the right 24-stud engine." The first series Ford 24-stud engines, commonly referred to as 21A, had a 3-
1/16-inch bore, while the engine for the then-new Mercury, designated 99A, was treated to a 3-3/16-inch bore. Both engines had a 3-3/4-inch
stroke, resulting in 221 cid and 239 cid respectively. A key shortcoming for the 21A Ford block is its relatively thin cylinder walls,
compared to those of the Mercury and the 59A Fords. During this period (1942-'48), Ford and Mercury engines were virtually identical,
including the 3-3/16-inch bore. (Ford trucks had their own version of the "big-bore" Mercury block, labeled 99T. Both were heavier castings
than the Ford passenger car block, in addition to sharing some architectural differences that made them highly desirable to the really tricky
engine builders "in the know" in the post- war period. Count yourself extra lucky if you find one of these rare jewels in serviceable condition.)
Dave's flatheads range from a very traditional 3/4 race, 3 carburetor 8BA such as this beauty
..To a Whipple supercharger-huffed streeter that cranks out 350 hp and an astonishing 342 ft-lbs of torque at
2500 rpm.